OdishaBasna

Cooking abroad

What to buy instead

Some of this is not sold outside India, and some of it is sold under a different name two aisles over. This is every substitution on the site, with the shop it is usually found in. Each one is also on the recipe page itself — switch Outside India and the list rewrites.

Baigana (brinjal)

Buy: Italian eggplant

Cut into big wedges, skin on.

Used in Dalma, Santula

Panch phutana

Buy: Panch phoron

Bengali panch phoron is the closest thing sold abroad.

In the shop: Five whole seeds, never a powder. If the jar is ground, it is the wrong thing.

Used in Dalma, Santula

Raw papaya

Buy: Green papaya, or chayote

Asian and Caribbean shops carry green papaya.

In the shop: Hard and deep green — ask for green papaya, not the ripe orange one.

Used in Dalma, Santula

Raw papaya, as sold

Arhar dal (toor)

Buy: Toor dal

Sold in every Indian shop. Yellow split peas work but need ten minutes longer.

In the shop: Split, matte yellow-orange, slightly larger than moong.

Used in Dalma

Dried red chillies

Buy: Chile de árbol

Much hotter than Odia dried chilli — use half.

Used in Dalma

Fresh grated coconut

Buy: Frozen grated coconut

Thaw first. Desiccated only as a last resort, soaked in warm water.

In the shop: Loose white shreds, not sweetened baking flakes.

Used in Dalma

Kakharu (pumpkin)

Buy: Butternut squash

Sweeter and denser — cut slightly larger so it does not collapse.

Used in Dalma

Kancha kadali (raw banana)

Buy: Green plantain

The firmest, greenest one in the box. Yellow will go sweet and mushy.

Used in Dalma

Mustard oil

Buy: Cold-pressed mustard oil

Indian shops only. The US supermarket kind is sold for external use.

Used in Santula

Ridge gourd

Buy: Courgette

Add it late — courgette releases far more water than ridge gourd.

Used in Santula

Saru (colocasia)

Buy: Frozen taro, or a waxy potato

Frozen taro is in the Asian freezer aisle.

In the shop: Small, hairy, brown-skinned, about the size of an egg. Sold as taro, arbi or eddoe.

Used in Dalma

A word on swapping

A substitution is not the same dish. Chayote in place of raw papaya makes a good dalma; it does not make the dalma you remember. Where the difference matters, the recipe says so, and where nothing sold abroad comes close, it says that too rather than pretending.